Inner and outer sills and cross member

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Outer sill replaced and front part of the inner sill. The back part was ok even though just a bit of rust by the cross member.
Cut out the end part of the cross member. The floor is not very flat there as it had already been patched when the cross member was replaced first time around. That was done by the garage I bought the car from – they must have cut through the floor to get it out! It wasn’t very neat but was strong!

Minor patch in the boot area is around the spare wheel retaining bolt.

Unfortunately located another lacy bit on the rear wheel arch so had to cut and insert a section.
For cleaning off the the welds / underseal / paint I’ve been scraping with an old paint scraper, then using the wire brush on the angle grinder. The flat version is better than the cup for all the corners.
The intention was to clean off loose bits and welds and prime with spray can etch primer. Then use the Gravitex stonechip to underseal. The Gravitex is supposed to be able to cover anything and also be overpainted. The old underseal is oil based stuff and goes soft with the Gravitex which is cellulose based. On my test area it didn’t react and went hard again after a week. Hopefully a larger area will do the same – we shall see !

The remaining rust you can see is surface, except the area in the floor under the exhaust heat protector, which is a bit of a water/rust trap.
Whilst cleaning off with the wire brush on the angle grinder I made a hole as what I thought was surface rust disintegrated.
Much of the cleaning off has been with the angle grinder plus wire brush; prior to that I got rid of old underseal using a paint scraper and old oil with white spirit.
The areas of sound body with sound underseal I ran over lightly with the angle grinder brush to get rid of the dusty dry surface and provide a key for the Gravitex.

Nearside inner wing

The n/s inner wing was in worse condition than the o/s so I decided to replace the two inner wing panels and patch the A post.

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Cut out the wing and made a repair section for the bump stop on the inner wheel arch and also a repair section round the wheel arch seam.
Lining up the inner wing needs lots of measuring and eyeing up to get right. At the A post end it is easy as the panel fits in one place and only its height needs setting, I lined up the top of the wing edge and measured from the courtesy light switch to the door stay bolts. At the front end measure from the bumper bar (although mine was bent) and also lay a straight edge across both wings and eye it up to the bulkhead.
Although there is little that can be done it is worth checking the distance from the bulkhead to the front – the new panel is 5mm longer, other wing is dented on the front edge.
I patched the A post and welded on a new back section – however when I came to fit it, it had turned banana shaped and was not to useful, so in the bin it went and a new panel bought.
The A post is easier than the inner wing to fit but a door trial fit is essential. Height measured from the courtesy light switch to the door hinge, also lines up with the stay bolts although this is when I found that these were 5mm higher than the other side or the original. Once lined up tack it on and trial fit the door. A quick measure of the door opening to the A post hinges will check the angle is right, Mine was out by quite a bit so I cut of the tack welds on the front edge and knocked it forward. Trial fit of the door and it all seemed perfect (I expect that will change somehow when I fit the door finally!).

Morris inner wing repair

The car, once stripped down to shell was placed on a “roasting spit” style jig so that it could be turned over to make repair easier in a single garage. It worked well.

Standard area for rust. It had been patched a few times already so this time it was a bigger repair panel.

It used to be an invalid carriage, converted in 1976 by Reselco Invalid Carriages Ltd, when it was 6 years old.

It had a hand operated brake that joined the brake pedal on an extended bit that came through the chassis leg. Unfortunately the neat (!) hole made for the hand operated brake had weakened the chassis and caused cracks from each of the 4 corners to the chassis rail edge – I’ve now welded up the cracks and placed a patch over the hole – obviously cutting off the brake peddle extension too!

I think it also had a hand operated throttle. The actual conversion bits were removed before I got it.

Homemade inner wing section and bought “A” post. You can also see some repairs to the chassis legs where it had fractured and also been hacked to provide invalid controls.

Morris Minor 1000

A long time ago (1987, I can’t believe I looked like that!) whilst at U.E.A. I purchased my second Morris Minor. The van being the first Minor. I did a rolling restoration during the next few years whist I did research at Southampton Uni. I moved house two times, got a proper job and started a complete restoration. This got interrupted by getting married, moving house to a fixer upper and having a Son.

I will finish it…